This browser doesn't support Spotify Web Player. Switch browsers or download Spotify for your desktop.

The TrainingBeta Podcast

By Neely Quinn: Rock Climber, Nutritionist

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation about training for climbing with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories about climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

  1. 1.
    TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach Goals02/27/2019
    1:15:36
  2. 2.
    TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a02/05/2019
    1:01:00
  3. 3.
    TBP 119: How Tom O'Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time01/25/2019
    1:17:40
  4. 4.
    TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing01/17/2019
    1:12:01
  5. 5.
    TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury01/10/2019
    1:07:57
  6. 6.
    TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries12/13/2018
    1:43:03
  7. 7.
    TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Training, Comps, and Being Vegan10/26/2018
    1:09:28
  8. 8.
    TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber10/17/2018
    1:32:11
  1. 9.
    TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing09/19/2018
    1:17:25
  2. 10.
    TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fear and Setting Big Goals09/12/2018
    1:20:52
  3. 11.
    TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program08/15/2018
    54:19
  4. 12.
    TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing08/09/2018
    1:10:09
  5. 13.
    TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 3808/01/2018
    1:16:05
  6. 14.
    TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing07/25/2018
    1:19:58
  7. 15.
    TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps06/27/2018
    1:19:58
  8. 16.
    TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers06/20/2018
    1:12:16
  9. 17.
    TBP 105 :: Esther Smith - Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers05/30/2018
    52:22
  10. 18.
    TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching05/02/2018
    1:08:33
  11. 19.
    TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers04/25/2018
    55:57
  12. 20.
    TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain04/18/2018
    1:10:00
  13. 21.
    TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries04/11/2018
    1:19:47
  14. 22.
    TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program03/28/2018
    1:16:21
  15. 23.
    TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition03/21/2018
    1:07:54
  16. 24.
    TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should03/15/2018
    56:44
  17. 25.
    Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols03/07/2018
    22:42
  18. 26.
    TBP 097 :: How to Overcome Fear in Climbing with Author Roanne van Voorst03/01/2018
    1:14:34
  19. 27.
    TBP 096 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Imagery and Setting Realistic Goals01/25/2018
    1:04:05
  20. 28.
    TBP 095 :: Zahan Billimoria on Alpine Training with Minimal Equipment01/10/2018
    1:13:25
  21. 29.
    TBP 094 :: Esther Smith - Treating Knee and Hip Injuries in Climbers12/14/2017
    1:08:21
  22. 30.
    TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes11/16/2017
    1:11:05
  23. 31.
    TBP 092 :: Dr. Jared Vagy's 4-Step Pyramid for Healing Injuries10/19/2017
    1:12:46
  24. 32.
    TBP 091 :: Tom Randall and Ollie Torr on How Their Training Research Can Help Us10/05/2017
    1:14:57
  25. 33.
    TBP 090 :: Charlie Manganiello on Training for Multiple Sports09/29/2017
    1:12:37
  26. 34.
    TBP 089 :: Paige Claassen on What It Took to Send 5.14c09/21/2017
    1:00:57
  27. 35.
    TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World's First 9c / 5.15d09/11/2017
    1:05:47
  28. 36.
    TBP 087 :: Paige Claassen Spells Out How To Successfully Project A Route09/06/2017
    1:12:56
  29. 37.
    TBP 086 :: How Paige Claassen Trained for Roof Climbing in Flatanger, Norway08/29/2017
    29:49
  30. 38.
    TBP 085 :: Esther Smith - Neck and Back Injuries in Climbers08/17/2017
    1:16:41
  31. 39.
    TBP 084 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training08/16/2017
    1:11:46
  32. 40.
    TBP 083 :: Maureen Beck Climbs 5.11+ with One Hand08/03/2017
    47:40
  33. 41.
    TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70's07/06/2017
    1:12:26
  34. 42.
    TBP 081 :: Skin Care for Climbers with Justin Brown of Rhino Skin Solutions06/09/2017
    1:00:43
  35. 43.
    TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan06/01/2017
    1:16:29
  36. 44.
    TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send05/19/2017
    1:20:06
  37. 45.
    TBP 078 :: Natasha Barnes Tells Us The 4 Best Lifts for Climbers05/04/2017
    1:14:10
  38. 46.
    TBP 077 :: The Best Supplements for Climbers with Shannon O'Grady04/25/2017
    1:12:45
  39. 47.
    TBP 076 :: Esther Smith on How to Heal Your Finger Injury04/13/2017
    1:12:38
  40. 48.
    New Mini Podcast Series with Mercedes Pollmeier: Using Body Awareness in Climbing and Beyond04/07/2017
    22:32
  41. 49.
    TBP 075 :: Madaleine Sorkin on Training for 5.13 Big Walls and Alpine03/08/2017
    1:17:07
  42. 50.
    TBP 074 :: Climbing Training Success Stories with Mercedes Pollmeier03/02/2017
    1:11:37
  43. 51.
    TBP 073 :: Margarita Martinez on Climbing Her First 13d at Age 5802/13/2017
    1:09:56
  44. 52.
    TBP 072 :: How Danny Robertson Broke A 10-Year Plateau01/26/2017
    1:12:22
  45. 53.
    TBP 071 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith on Elbow Pain01/06/2017
    1:12:43
  46. 54.
    TBP 070 :: Josh Dreher on Losing Weight and Home Gym Training12/22/2016
    1:15:31
  47. 55.
    TBP 069 :: Jess Simmons on the Benefits of Yoga for Climbing12/12/2016
    1:11:08
  48. 56.
    TBP 068 :: Alex Stiger on How Coaching Kids Made Her Stronger11/30/2016
    1:14:07
  49. 57.
    TBP 067 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Breathing and Staying Calm11/15/2016
    1:12:11
  50. 58.
    TBP 066 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith Talks About Shoulders11/02/2016
    1:10:28
  51. 59.
    TBP 065 :: Beth Rodden on Big Walls, Injuries, and Becoming A Mom10/27/2016
    1:07:58
  52. 60.
    TBP 064 :: Dan Mirsky on BD Bootcamp Success and Becoming A Trainer10/19/2016
    1:17:40
  53. 61.
    TBP 063 :: The Anderson Brothers' Evolving Training Philosophies and New Research10/14/2016
    1:06:53
  54. 62.
    TBP 062 :: Colette McInerney on BD Bootcamp and Living the Dream10/07/2016
    1:08:19
  55. 63.
    TBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist's Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin Care09/21/2016
    1:14:31
  56. 64.
    TBP 060 :: Sam Elias on Taming His Emotions to Climb Harder09/12/2016
    1:11:28
  57. 65.
    TBP 059 :: Access Fund on Going from Gym to Crag Responsibly08/30/2016
    1:10:13
  58. 66.
    Ask Kris 011 :: Online Training Vs In-Person Training07/15/2016
    21:41
  59. 67.
    TBP 058 :: Joe Kinder on The BD Bootcamp, Route Development, and Being a Pro07/11/2016
    58:15
  60. 68.
    Ask Kris 010 :: Training on a Time Budget06/30/2016
    20:00
  61. 69.
    TBP 057 :: Joshua Rucci Compares Training College Athletes to Climbers06/28/2016
    1:01:19
  62. 70.
    Ask Kris 009 :: Efficient Home Training for Climbing06/23/2016
    20:55
  63. 71.
    TBP 056 :: Our Shoulder Surgeon (Dr. Tom Hackett) on Shoulder Injuries06/21/2016
    1:00:58
  64. 72.
    Ask Kris 008 :: Heart Rate Monitors and Lactic Acid Thresholds06/16/2016
    26:36
  65. 73.
    TBP 055 :: Lynn Hill (need I say more?)06/14/2016
    1:03:52
  66. 74.
    Ask Kris 007 :: Are You Overtraining?06/09/2016
    18:24
  67. 75.
    TBP 054 :: Ryan Vachon on Mixed Climbing Training06/07/2016
    1:03:52
  68. 76.
    Ask Kris 006 :: Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing05/26/2016
    25:05
  69. 77.
    TBP 053 :: Aaron Mulkey on Ice Climbing Training05/24/2016
    1:15:14
  70. 78.
    Ask Kris 005 :: Improving Core Strength for Climbing05/16/2016
    23:18
  71. 79.
    TBP 052 :: How Mathilde Becerra Is Top 10 in World for Lead Climbing05/05/2016
    1:02:15
  72. 80.
    Ask Kris 004 :: Shoulder Care for Climbers05/02/2016
    21:58
  73. 81.
    TBP 051 :: Sean McColl Tells Us How He Trains04/14/2016
    56:46
  74. 82.
    Ask Kris 003 :: Training for Bouldering vs Routes04/12/2016
    20:49
  75. 83.
    TBP 050 :: V8 Boulderer Teal Dreher Compares Training Programs04/07/2016
    1:09:58
  76. 84.
    Ask Kris 002 :: The 3 Best Lifts for Climbers04/05/2016
    22:14
  77. 85.
    TBP 049 :: Trainer Mercedes Pollmeier on ARCing and Training for 5.1203/31/2016
    1:01:22
  78. 86.
    Ask Kris :: Finger Strength Training Mini Episode03/29/2016
    21:16
  79. 87.
    TBP 048 :: Neil Gresham on Training for 5.11 and 5.1203/24/2016
    1:13:44
  80. 88.
    TBP 047 :: Jorg Verhoeven on The Nose, V15, and World Cup Training03/14/2016
    1:13:58
  81. 89.
    TBP 046 :: Neely Quinn on Weight Loss for Climbers03/07/2016
    32:47
  82. 90.
    TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on Jumbo Love 15b, The Nest V15, and Depression02/24/2016
    1:10:23
  83. 91.
    TBP 044 :: Matt Helliker on Training for Alpine Climbing02/16/2016
    1:19:14
  84. 92.
    TBP 043 :: Neely Explains the Ketogenic Diet02/10/2016
    24:31
  85. 93.
    TBP 042 :: David Mason on Training for V1402/03/2016
    1:18:24
  86. 94.
    TBP 041 :: Matt Lloyd and His Climbing/CrossFit Hybrid Gym01/27/2016
    1:14:27
  87. 95.
    TBP 040 :: Nina Williams on Training for V13, Comps, and Diet01/06/2016
    1:06:46
  88. 96.
    TBP 039 :: Dave MacLeod on Training, Injuries, Diet, and Fear12/31/2015
    1:17:18
  89. 97.
    TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods12/16/2015
    1:17:14
  90. 98.
    TBP 037 :: Thomasina Pidgeon on Climbing V12 at Age 4012/07/2015
    1:08:58
  91. 99.
    TBP 036 :: Steve Bechtel Interview #211/25/2015
    1:13:30
  92. 100.
    TBP 035 :: Isabelle Faus on Sending V1411/18/2015
    1:03:21
  93. 101.
    TBP 034 :: Justen Sjong on Improving Your Mental Game11/11/2015
    1:01:04
  94. 102.
    TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently11/04/2015
    1:13:41
  95. 103.
    TBP 032 :: Nathan Drolet (Average Joe Climber) Trains Smart and Climbs Hard10/05/2015
    1:06:58
  96. 104.
    TBP 031 :: Ben Moon on Training and Climbing Through The Decades08/20/2015
    58:43
  97. 105.
    TBP 030 :: Jon Cardwell on How He Climbs Hard Routes and Boulders08/12/2015
    1:04:29
  98. 106.
    TBP 029 :: Climbing Trainer Adam Macke on MAT and Weight Training07/29/2015
    1:07:31
  99. 107.
    TBP 028 :: Neely Quinn on Nutrition for Climbers07/24/2015
    51:53
  100. 108.
    TBP 027 :: Kevin Jorgeson Talks about The Dawn Wall and Highballs07/09/2015
    1:11:15
  101. 109.
    TBP 026 :: Dr. Lisa Erikson on Preventing and Healing Injuries07/03/2015
    1:08:30
  102. 110.
    TBP 025:: Steve Maisch06/22/2015
    1:08:03
  103. 111.
    TBP 024::Hazel Findlay on Humility and Being Brave06/10/2015
    1:13:56
  104. 112.
    TBP 023 :: Arno Ilgner on Overcoming Fear and Ego in Climbing06/03/2015
    1:10:05
  105. 113.
    TBP 022: Bill Ramsey on Sending 14b at Age 5405/27/2015
    1:09:56
  106. 114.
    TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding05/20/2015
    1:23:54
  107. 115.
    TBP 020 :: Alex Barrows on Training for His First 5.14d05/14/2015
    1:10:51
  108. 116.
    TBP 019 :: Eric Hörst on Training Methods for Adults and Kids04/28/2015
    1:14:02
  109. 117.
    Training Q&A Session #204/27/2015
    32:49
  110. 118.
    TBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil, and Having A Career While Still Climbing Hard03/30/2015
    1:09:12
  111. 119.
    TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training02/18/2015
    1:11:12
  112. 120.
    TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism02/10/2015
    1:10:51
  113. 121.
    Free Q&A Webinar-1: Kris Peters & Seth Lytton.mp302/05/2015
    1:00:52
  114. 122.
    TBP 015 :: Heather Weidner on Trying Hard and Sticking with Projects01/07/2015
    1:03:51
  115. 123.
    TBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment11/01/2014
    1:17:41
  116. 124.
    TBP 013 :: Hans Florine on Speed Climbing The Nose and Training for It10/22/2014
    1:13:20
  117. 125.
    TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight09/22/2014
    1:09:59
  118. 126.
    TBP 011 :: Dan Mirsky on Staying Strong on the Road, Training for Rifle, and Whether Running Helps Him Send08/26/2014
    1:01:25
  119. 127.
    TBP :: 010 Kris Peters on All Things Training, Team of 2, TrainingBeta, and Cardio08/06/2014
    1:00:48
  120. 128.
    TBP 009 :: Mark and Mike Anderson on Their Book, J-Star, and How Less Is More06/30/2014
    1:20:11
  121. 129.
    TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm06/02/2014
    57:57
  122. 130.
    TBP 007 :: Steve Bechtel on Training, Power Endurance, Running, Weight Loss, and More05/19/2014
    51:32
  123. 131.
    TBP 006: A Talk with Kris Hampton about Training, Rapping, 14a, and TrainingBeta05/03/2014
    52:32
  124. 132.
    TBP 005: Jonathan Siegrist on Sending, Failing, Training, and Dreaming Big04/11/2014
    50:53
  125. 133.
    TBP 004: Angie Payne on V14, Failures, Rivals, Diet, Weight, and Training03/26/2014
    45:58
  126. 134.
    TBP 003: Jamie Emerson on Training, Ethics, and Being The Sheriff03/13/2014
    48:12
  127. 135.
    TBP 002: Paige Claassen on Training, Eating, and Body Weight03/05/2014
    32:04
  128. 136.
    TBP001 - A Talk with Carlo Traversi02/23/2014
    46:26

Listen to The TrainingBeta Podcast now.

Listen to The TrainingBeta Podcast in full in the Spotify app